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中國飲食文化(Chinese Food Culture)



  在中國傳統文化教育中的陰陽五行哲學思想、儒家倫理道德觀念、中醫營養攝生學説,還有文化藝術成就、飲食審美風尚、民族性格特徵諸多因素的影響下,創造出彪炳史册的中國烹飪技藝,形成博大精深的中國飲食文化。

  從沿革看,中國飲食文化綿延170多萬年,分爲生食、熟食、自然烹飪、科學烹飪4個發展階段,推出6萬多種傳統菜點、2萬多種工業食品、五光十色的筵宴和流光溢彩的風味流派,獲得“烹飪王國”的美譽。

  從内涵上看,中國飲食文化涉及到食源的開發與利用、食具的運用與創新、食品的生産與消費、餐飲的服務與接待、餐飲業與食品業的經營與管理,以及飲食與國泰民安、飲食與文學藝術、飲食與人生境界的關係等,深厚廣博。

  從外延看,中國飲食文化可以從時代與技法、地域與經濟、民族與宗教、食品與食具、消費與層次、民俗與功能等多種角度進行分類,展示出不同的文化品味,體現出不同的使用價值,异彩紛呈。

  從特質看,中國飲食文化突出養助益充的營衛論(素食爲主,重視藥膳和進補),五味調和的境界説(風味鮮明,適口者珍,有“舌頭菜”之譽),奇正互變的烹調法(厨規爲本,靈活變通),暢神怡情的美食觀(文質彬彬,寓教於食)等4大屬性,有着不同於海外各國飲食文化的天生麗質。

  從影響看,中國飲食文化直接影響到日本、蒙古、朝鮮、韓國、泰國、新加坡等國家,是東方飲食文化圈的軸心;與此同時,它還間接影響到歐洲、美洲、非洲和大洋洲,像中國的素食文化、茶文化、醬醋、麵食、藥膳、陶瓷餐具和大荳等,都惠及全世界數十億人。

  總之,中國飲食文化是一種廣視野、深層次、多角度、高品位的悠久區域文化;是中華各族人民在100多萬年的生産和生活實踐中,在食源開發、食具研製、食品調理、營養保健和飲食審美等方面創造、積累並影響周邊國家和世界的物質財富及精神財富。

  中國人的飲食從先秦開始,就是以穀物爲主,肉少糧多,輔以菜蔬,這就是典型的飯菜結構。其中飯是主食,而菜則是爲了下飯,即助飯下咽。

  中國烹飪的首要目的是裝點飲食,使不可口的食物變得精妙絶倫,總體説來,中國飲食文化有如下特徵:其一,中國烹飪技術發達,許多西方人看來不可食的物品,經過中國厨師的勞作,變得使人一見而食慾頓開;其二,中國人的食譜廣泛,舉凡能够食者皆食,毫無禁忌;其三,中國救荒的著述特别多,以備饑荒之年以野菜充飢之用;其四,中國人將食的追求作爲人生至樂來追求,喫飯成爲第一要求。

  一、餐具(dinner set, table ware)

  和西餐相比較,中餐的一大特色就是就餐餐具有所不同。我們首先來瞭解一下中餐餐具。 

  1. 筷子(chopsticks)

  筷子是中餐最主要的餐具。使用筷子,通常必須成雙使用。最常用的筷子是竹子或者木頭做的,也有用塑料、鐵或銀來做的。在小餐館,常常使用竹子或者木質的一次性筷子。

  Chopsticks are the primary eating utensil in Chinese culture for solid foods, while soups and other liquids are enjoyed with a wide, flatbottomed spoon (traditionally made of ceramic). It is reported that wooden chopsticks are losing their dominance due to recent logging shortfalls in China and East Asia; many Chinese eating establishments are considering a switch to a more environmentally sustainable eating utensil, such as plastic or bamboo chopsticks. More expensive materials used in the past included ivory and silver. On the other hand, disposable chopsticks made of wood/bamboo have all but replaced reusable ones in small restaurants.

  2.勺子(spoon)

  它的主要作用是舀取菜肴、食物、喝湯。

  3.盤子(plate)

  4.飯碗(rice bowl)

  5.水杯(glass)

  水杯主要用來盛放清水、汽水、果汁、可樂等軟飲料時使用。

  6.牙籤(toothpick)

  二、中餐概述(An overview of Chinese meal)

  中餐主要有兩部分組成:

  1.主食(zhǔshí,“main food”, staple ,a carbohydrate source or starch),主要有米飯(rice)、麵條(noodles)、饅頭(mantou、steamed buns)等。

  Rice is a critical part of much of Chinese cuisine. However, in many parts of China, particularly northern China, wheatbased products including noodles and steamed buns (mantou饅頭) predominate, in contrast to southern China where rice is dominant. Despite the importance of rice in Chinese cuisine, at extremely formal occasions, it is sometimes the case that no rice at all will be served; in such a case, rice would only be provided when no other dishes remained, or as a token dish at the end of the meal. Soup is usually served at the start of a meal and at the end of a meal in Southern China.

  2.菜(cài, “vegetable”, accompanying dishes of vegetables, meat, fish, or other items)

  This cultural conceptualization is in some ways in contrast to cuisines of Northern Europe and the USA, where meat or animal protein is often considered the main dish, and analogous to the one of most Mediterranean cuisines, based typically on wheatderived components like pasta or couscous.

  3.湯 、糖水(soup)

  A sweet dish is usually served at the end of a formal dinner, such as sliced fruits or a sweet soup (糖水, sugar water) which is served warm.

  三、中國八大菜係(eight regional cuisines of china)

  中國菜肴在烹飪中有許多流派。其中最有影響和代表性的也爲社會所公認的有:魯、川、粤、閩、蘇、浙、湘、徽等菜係,即被人們常説的中國“八大菜係”。其中又以川菜、粤菜的影響最大,川、粤菜館遍佈海内外,受到廣大海内外人士的喜愛。 

  一個菜係的形成和它的悠久歷史與獨到的烹飪特色分不開的。同時也受到這個地區的自然地理、氣候條件、資源特産、飲食習慣等影響。有人把“八大菜係”用擬人化的手法描繪爲:蘇、浙菜好比清秀素麗的江南美女;魯、皖菜猶如古拙檏實的北方健漢;粤、閩菜宛如風流典雅的公子;川、湘菜就像内涵豐富充實、才藝滿身的名士。 中國“八大菜係”的烹調技藝各具風韵,其菜肴之特色也各有千秋。

  Chinese food enjoys a high reputation in the world also for its sheer abundance. It is due to the diversity of the climate, products and customs that there are widely different food styles and tastes in local regions. 

  For local styles, Beijing cuisine combines the best features of different regional styles. Shangdong cuisine leads the Northern dishes. Shangdong cooks are good at cooking seafood. Sichuan cooks specialize in chilies and hot peppers and Sichuan dish is famous for aromatic and spicy sauces. Guangdong cooking makes use of many ingredients. They look for fresh, tender, crisp textures. Huai Yang cuisine stresses the natural flavors. Dishes are strong but not greasy, and light but delicate. Tan cuisine is both sweet and salty. There is a saying that “southerners have a sweet tooth, and northerners crave salt”, but Tan dishes manage to satisfy both. Because China's local dishes have their own typical characteristics, Chinese food can be divided into eight regional cuisines, the distinction of which is now widely accepted.

  1.四川菜係 (Sichuan Cuisine、Szechuan Cuisine)

  四川菜歷史悠久,在國内外都享有很高的聲譽。四川古稱巴蜀之地,號稱“天府之國”,位於長江上游,氣候温和,雨量充沛,群山環抱,江河縱横,盛産糧油,蔬菜瓜果四季不斷,家畜家禽品種齊全,山嶽深丘特産熊、鹿、獐、狍、銀耳、蟲草、竹笋等山珍野味,江河湖泊又有江團、雅魚、岩鯉、中華鱘。優越的自然環境,豐富的特産資源,都爲四川菜的形成與發展提供了有利條件。

  四川菜是以成都、重慶兩個地方菜爲代表,選料講究,規格劃一,層次分明,鮮明協調。特點是突出麻、辣、香、鮮、油大、味厚,重用“三椒”(辣椒、花椒、胡椒)和鮮薑。調味方法有干燒、魚香、怪味、椒麻、紅油、薑汁、糖醋、荔枝、蒜泥等複合味型,形成了川菜的特殊風味,享有“一菜一格,百菜百味”的美譽。在烹調方法上擅長炒、滑、熘、爆、煸、炸、煮、煨等。尤以小煎、小炒、干煸和干燒有其獨道之處。從高級筵席“三蒸九扣”到大衆便餐、民間小喫、家常風味等,菜品繁多,花式新穎,做工精細。 

  人們常説,“没有吃過川菜的人,不能是真正到過中國。”

  Sichuan Cuisine, known more commonly in the West as Szechuan Cuisine, is one of the most famous Chinese cuisines in the world. Characterized by its spicy and pungent flavors, Sichuan cuisine, with a myriad of tastes, emphasizes the use of chili. Pepper and prickly ash are always in accompaniment, producing the typical exciting tastes. Garlic(蒜), ginger (薑)and fermented soybean(腐乳) are also used in the cooking process. Wild vegetables and meats such as are often chosen as ingredients, while frying(煎、炒), frying without oil(干鍋),pickling (腌、泡)and braising(燜) are used as basic cooking techniques.

  It can be said that one who doesn't experience Sichuan food has never reached China. 

  聞名菜譜(Typical menu items)

  2.廣東菜係 (Guangdong Cuisine 、Cantonese Cuisine) 

  廣東菜,簡稱粤菜,是我國四大菜係之一,有“食在廣州”的美譽。廣東地處亞熱帶,瀕臨南海,四季常青,物産豐富,山珍海味無所不有,蔬果時鮮四季不同,清人竹枝詞曰:“響螺脆不及至鮮。最好嘉魚二月天,冬至魚生夏至狗,一年佳味幾登筵。”把廣東豐富多樣的烹飪資源淋漓盡致地描繪了出來。

  廣東菜,有廣州菜、潮州菜和東江菜三大類。

  廣州菜集南海、番禺、東莞、順德、中山等地方風味的特色,兼京、蘇、揚、杭等外省菜以及西菜之所長,融爲一體,自成一家。廣州菜取料廣泛,品種花樣繁多,令人眼花潦亂。天上飛的,地上爬的,水中游的,幾乎都能上席。鷓鴣、禾花雀、豹狸、果子狸、穿山甲、海狗魚等飛禽野味自不必説;猫、狗、蛇、鼠、猴、龜,甚至不識者誤認爲“螞蝗”的禾蟲,亦在烹製之列,而且一經厨師之手,頓時就變成异品奇珍、美味佳肴,令中外人士刮目相看,十分驚异。廣州菜的另一突出特點是,用量精而細,配料多而巧,裝飾美而艷,而且善於在模仿中創新,品種繁多,1965 年“廣州名菜美點展覽會”介紹的就有5457 種之多。廣州菜的第三個特點是,注重質和味,口味比較清淡,力求清中求鮮、淡中求美。而且隨季節時令的變化而變化,夏秋偏重清淡,冬春偏重濃郁。食味講究清、鮮、嫩、爽、滑、香,調味遍及酸、甜、苦、辣、咸,此即所謂五滋六味。代表品種有:龍虎鬥、白灼蝦、烤乳猪、香芋扣肉、黄埔炒蛋、炖禾蟲、狗肉煲、五彩炒蛇絲等,都是饒有地方風味的廣州名菜。

  潮州菜以烹調海鮮見長,刀工技術講究,口味偏重香、濃、鮮、甜。喜用魚露、沙茶醬、梅羔醬、薑酒等調味品,甜菜較多,款式百種以上,都是粗料細作,香甜可口。潮州菜的另一特點是喜擺十二款,上菜次序有喜頭、尾甜菜,下半席上咸點心。秦以前潮州屬閩地,其語系和風俗習慣接近閩南而與廣州有别,因淵源不同,故菜肴的特色也有别。代表品種有:燒雁鵝、豆醬鷄、護國菜、什錦烏石參、葱薑炒蟹、干炸蝦棗等,都是潮州特色名菜,流傳嶺南地區及海内外。

  東江菜又稱客家菜,所謂客家,是古代從中原遷徙南來的漢人,多是整村而遷或是整族而徙的,定居東江山區後,仍沿襲中原時的語言和風俗習慣,故菜肴的特色也得以保留。東江菜以惠州菜爲代表,下油重,口味偏咸,醬料簡單,但主料突出。喜用三鳥、畜肉,很少配用菜蔬,河鮮海産也不多。代表品種有:東江鹽焗鷄、東江釀豆腐、爽口牛丸等,表現出濃厚的古代中州之食風。

  據近幾年報刊介紹,中國餐館遍佈世界各大都市,美國有近萬家,英國有四千多家,法國、荷蘭各有二千多家,日本不下數千家。這些中國餐館,多數經營粤菜,生意極旺。澳大利亞悉尼市的唐人街,飲茶已成爲一個專有名詞,凡到悉尼市遊覽的人,都以到唐人街享受粤式飲茶用餐的情趣爲時尚,粤菜的影響之大可見一斑。

  3.湖南菜係(Hunan Cuisine)

  特點:注重香辣、麻辣、酸、辣、焦麻、香鮮,尤爲酸辣居多。

  Hunan cuisine consists of local cuisines of Xiangjiang Region, Dongting Lake and Xiangxi coteau areas. It is characterized by thick and pungent(辛辣的)flavors,Chili, pepper(胡椒、辣椒)and shallot(青葱)are usually necessities in this variation.

  聞名菜譜(Typical menu items):

  4. 山東菜係(Shandong Cuisine)

  特點:味濃厚、嗜葱蒜,尤以烹制海鮮,湯菜和各種動物内臟爲長。

  Consisting of Jinan cuisine and Jiaodong cuisine, Shandong cuisine, clean, pure and not greasy, is characterized by its emphasis on aroma, freshness, crispness and tenderness. Shallots and garlic are frequently used as seasonings so Shandong dishes taste pungent. Soups are given much emphasis in Shandong cuisine. Thin soups are clear and fresh while creamy soups are thick and taste strong. Jinan chefs are adept at deepfrying, grilling, panfrying and stirfrying while Jiaodong chefs are famous for cooking seafood with a fresh and light taste.

  聞名菜譜(Typical menu items): Bird's Nest Soup; Yellow River Carp in Sweet and Sour sauce

  5.江蘇菜係(Jiangsu Cuisine、Huaiyang Cuisine)

  特點: 烹調技藝以炖、燜、煨著稱;重視調湯,保持原汁。

  Jiangsu Cuisine, also called Huaiyang Cuisine, is popular in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River. Using fish and crustaceans as the main ingredients, it stresses their freshness. Its carving techniques are delicate, of which the melon carving technique is especially well known. Cooking techniques consist of stewing, braising, roasting, and simmering. The flavor of Huaiyang Cuisine is light, fresh and sweet and its presentation is delicately elegant.

  聞名菜譜(Typical menu items):

  6.浙江菜係(Zhejiang Cuisine)

  特點:鮮嫩(freshness) 軟(softness) 滑(smoothness),香醇綿糯(mellow fragrance),清爽不膩(not greasy)

  Comprising local cuisines of Hanzhou, Ningbo, and Shaoxing, Zhejiang Cuisine is not greasy. It wins its reputation for freshness, tenderness, softness, and smoothness of its dishes with their mellow fragrance. Hangzhou Cuisine is the most famous one of the three.

  聞名菜譜(Typical menu items):

  7.福建菜係(Fujian Cuisine)

  特點:以海味爲主要原料,注重甜酸咸香、色美味鮮。

  Combining Fuzhou Cuisine, Quanzhou Cuisine and Xiamen Cuisine, Fujian Cuisine is renowned for its choice seafood, beautiful color and magical tastes of sweet, sour, salt and savory. The most distinct feature is their “pickled taste”.

  聞名菜譜Typical menu items:

  8.安徽菜係(Anhui Cuisine)

  安徽菜由皖南、沿江和沿淮地方風味搆成。皖南菜是主要代表。特點:以火腿(ham)佐味,冰糖 (candied sugar) 提鮮、擅長燒 (braise) 炖 (stew),講究火工 

  Anhui Cuisine chefs focus much more attention on the temperature in cooking and are good at braising and stewing. Often ham will be added to improve taste and candied sugar added to gain freshness.

  聞名菜譜(Typical menu items):

  四、藥膳(Chinese medicinal cuisine)

  藥膳擁有悠久的歷史,是中國獨一無二的。通常認爲,食物是爲人體提供生長發育和健康生存所需的各種營養素的可食性物質。中醫很早就認識到食物不僅能營養,而且還能療疾祛病。食療是中國人的傳統習慣,通過飲食達到調理身體、强壯體魄的目的。食療文化源遠流長,食療是一種長遠的養生行爲。早在唐代,我國著名的藥聖孫思邈就曾提出過“食療”的方法,體現了“藥治不如食治”的觀點。以前的人通過食療調理身體,現在的人通過食療减肥、護膚、護發。食療是一種健康的健體之道。爲了保持植物的藥效,在烹製藥膳的過程中,主要使用文火慢炖的方法。

  Chinese medicinal cuisine is unique in China and has a long history. Sun Simiao, a leading Tang Dynasty doctor, once said, “Food has the function of eliminating evil influences and soothing the vital organs, cultivating one's mind and building up one's strength.” In China, people contend that food tonic is much better than medicine tonic in fortifying one's health. Based on traditional Chinese herbal medicine practice, it combines strictly processed traditional Chinese medicine with traditional culinary materials to produce delicious food with health restoring qualities. To cook medicinal food, one has a large variety of fine materials to choose from and each material has its own unique flavor. Generally, processed herbal materials are more commonly used in order to avoid strong odors. However, individuals of different physical status need to select different herbs. The selection of herbs will depend on each individual's condition of health. Due to its herbal nature, it is better to take medicinal food according to the doctor's prescription.

  In the cooking of medicinal food, slow cooking methods such as stewing, braising and simmering are usually used in order to extract more of the herbs' healing properties.

  聞名菜譜Typical medicine cuisine:

  Baby Pigeon Stewed with Gouqi (Medlar) and Huangqi (Membranous Milk Vetch);

  功效(efficacy):病後補虚,適於中氣虚弱,體倦乏力。

  Pork Simmered with Lotus Seed and lily

  功效(efficacy):對神經衰弱,心悸失眠,低熱乾咳有食療作用。

  Pig's Kidney Stewed with Eucommia Bark. 

  功效(efficacy):具有滋補肝腎、强筋壯骨之功效。適用於熬夜後腰酸背痛、四肢乏力者服用。

  練習

  1.填空:中餐的主食經常吃_____________、_____________、_____________等。

  2. 描述一道你喜歡的中國菜。

  3. 説一説:和你們國家的飲食習慣比起來,中國的飲食有什麽特點?
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